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Arriving at Samaya Ubud, we are treated to sweeping views over a steep river gorge, and a backdrop of terraced rice fields glistening in the sun. Climbing into a buggy we hold on tight for the sharp descent through sub tropical rainforest, down onto the banks of the Ayung River. It is the most captivating of tropical settings, filled with the hum of cicadas, and the roar of the river which is running full and fast thanks to recent rain.
Lotus ponds surround a tall elegant pavilion and a wooden deck is slung along the river’s edge, with brightly coloured chairs shaded by pretty, flat-shaped parasols. The view definitely calls for a round of fruity cocktails, starting with a Citrus Crush, a wondrous concoction, with an appearance and a taste that is cool and sweet, thanks to full bodied orange juice tweaked with Bacardi and packed with lime wedges and fresh basil. Equally good, the Pineapple Lychee Martini is a smooth pale pink blend of vodka, juices and liqueurs, creating a unique taste sensation.
There is nothing like a gushing river to lull you into a state of serenity and the menus – which are printed on locally recycled paper – adopt evocative words like ‘Harmony’, ‘Comfort’, ‘Temptation’ and ‘Pleasurable’ as sectional headings. Chef de Cuisine Made Lugra brings five years of experience at Breeze, Samaya, Seminyak to the table, presenting a light and tropical menu with global influences infusing an eclectic range of dishes. Seafood is prominent, as are citrus flavours, fresh fruit and local produce.
We start with Lobster, Octopus,Asparagus, a sublime seafood melody with sprigs of mint, basil and parsley scattered amidst succulent baby octopus, soft sweet prawns and pale pink lobster, finished with an invigorating lemongrass dressing. Succulent Barbecued Pork Ribs have been marinated for 12 hours, then char grilled and delicately presented in small segments atop a creamy potato salad laced with chives. A fragrant apple-mango salad lightens the dish. Wagyu 2 Ways comes with three cuts of beef, included short rib and cheek, all coated in a dark rich reduction. Accompaniments are prawn foam, a divine lobster tempura, and purees of carrot and green pea.
Dinner is quite a formal affair, with a la carte options and a tantalising tasting menu, while the lunch menu is more causal, offering salads, sandwiches and local favourites, and there are separate menus for vegetarians and for kids. Classic style high tea is also served, albeit in a contemporary presentation – scones with homemade jam, finger sandwiches, strawberry and apple tarts and divine chocolate éclairs arrive on a sleek black and silver display stand.
It is with some regret that we leave this enchanted river setting, climbing back into the buggy for the return journey to the top of the gorge and back to reality. \AB
Swept Away @ Samaya Ubud
Banjar Baung
Desa Sayan
Ph +62 361 973 606
Open lunch 11 – 3 / Dinner 6 – 11
Seat 25
